Summer of Midnight Sun - Chapter 5: Geography Shaping Cuisine

 Like most places in the world, food in Iceland is shaped by the landscape and what is most readily available. Different from the majority of places, extreme isolation, and a wintry climate have hindered availability and import opportunities. Under these inhospitable conditions, Icelanders have gotten creative. Whether it's traditional cuisine like Hákarl, fermented shark meat, or the booming greenhouse business within the country, they have crafted a combination of traditional tastes with international imports. I was lucky enough to try a number of these foods and would like to share my experience and advice for your Icelandic adventure.

Looking at the traditional flavors of Iceland, it is important to consider how geography and history played a role in the development of flavors and processes. Iceland sits isolated in the Atlantic Ocean on the Arctic Circle, as a rugged grassland filled with cliffs and highlands. This not only limited trade with the outside world but also restricted options available to those immigrating to the island. These immigrants initially arrived from Norway in the 9th century as a group of mostly farmers aiming to own their own land, as Norway had become too full for additional farming. This added a strong tie back to other Nordic nations, both politically and in palettes.

Some of the traditional foods were wonderful, while others were a bit bizarre. With the sea being an abundant resource, Icelanders have taken advantage of it quite quickly, seafood is a staple in the diet. It was excellent whether at a restaurant or from the market. I also was able to try two oddities that come from local seafood, harðfiskkur and hákarl. Harðfiskkur is a whitefish hung to dry in the salty sea to wind-dry, creating a sort of fish jerky. It was really good, if quite smelly, and was a favorite of mine to take hiking. Hákarl was even more extreme, being a large slab of fermented shark. It spends three months in a gravel pit underground, then is hung to dry for an additional three months. It wasn't the highlight of my trip, having a texture and flavor that is a tiny bit cheesy, but I ended up going back for a second try. Also, it's become a tradition to follow a piece of hákarl with a shot of Brennivín, a liquor special to Iceland.

Other traditional flavors were centered around lamb, with it being served in countless ways. More sheep are on the island than people, so like the seafood, everything was extremely fresh. There is also a type of yogurt unique to the island called Skyr, made with its special culture for hundreds of years. It equated to something of a heavy mousse and has become integral to daily life. It seemed that everyone had their own container in the work fridge and I got equally hooked. Skyr was both breakfast and a midday snack many days and is the food I miss the most. Seriously. Bring it to the US.

In more modern times, the Icelandic diet has expanded as importing has become considerably easier. Hot dogs are a favorite across the country, a remnant of American influence during World War II. Served with raw onion, crispy onion, ketchup, mustard, and a special hot dog sauce they were both saucy and crisp, making it the best I've had to date. Iceland also made excellent candy, and I loved Sambó, a chocolate-covered licorice, and the chocolate, bringing some home for family and friends. 

As a whole, Icelandic cuisine is unique and dependent on its geography for shaping the flavors present today. Through the influence of imports, I was able to see the roots of the cuisine and culture. What food would you want to try the most?